Laminate peeling off - how to repair

The laminate of the underlip of our wash basin is peeling off ( pic attached ). Is there any possibility of repairing this and if yes, who would do this? Called up the manufacturer ( Falper ) but they asked me for details of when we bought the washbasin and from where, which we don't have.

TIA.

You can buy the strip at Hornbach (and other places). You iron it on.

It looks like you'd need to remove the basin first to gain access.

However, because the laminate has lifted, the mdf/chipboard underneath has probably swollen with water ingress so it may just be easier to get the whole panel replaced.

Thanks, Tom1234.

What are these strips called or how are they described?

And you are right, for sure the mdf underneath has swollen because of water ingress. I would like to change the panel but would someone fabricate it here given that Falper has only resellers in Switzerland so I am unlikely to get any help from them.

Thanks again.

Strips are here . (Kantenumleimer)

Some are self-adhesive but others are have to be put on by the supplier when ordering panels.

To be honest, if the panel is a simple rectangle, because it is not part of a drawer assembly, I would just measure it and get a replacement panel (hopefully the white colour should match).

You may have to cut the old one out but you should be able to fix the new one on with simple right-angles brackets from the inside without resorting to those difficult Ikea-style connectors.

This assumes some DIY skills and tools though!

The new strip will do the same thing if water keeps pooling there. After strip installation, silicone-bead the basin, and make sure everyone towels off the water after use.

You could try cutting an IKEA countertop to size (CHF 40)

https://www.ikea.com/ch/en/p/tolken-...hite-10354703/

and here are the instructions to fit it

https://www.ikea.com/ch/en/assembly_...-1931496-4.pdf

Hornbach or Coop Hobby und Bau etc will cut a piece of laminated MDF to size and do the edging for you on the cut edges and it's pretty reasonable pricing.

Tip: a piece cut from a large piece will have two factory-made edges and two hand-laminated edges. Fit the piece with the factory-made edges to the outside and top edged as they will be marginally neater and more robust.

Excellent advice.

The IKEA stuff is particleboard, high-pressure melamine laminate, reinforced polypropylene plastic. The normal laminate that you'd use for shelving wouldn't do well in a damp environment, so wherever you get your material from check that it's suitable for the job.

I've had an IKEA under-sink cupboard for several years now and it shows no wear and tear. You may also have to do some cutting to the shape of the sink, but you can use the old stuff as a template.

I had the same problem, I just ran a coat of this stuff over it. If you smooth it off well then it looks OK and it also waterproofs the laminate.

There are similar products from other manufacturers.

Clearly, the current shelving is not right for a bathroom. I just looked at the three other cupboards and they are all starting to deteriorate similarly. But I can't manage this IKEA solution because my DIY skills are fairly rudimentary.

Thanks for this super tip, Tom1234.

This piece is actually the front panel of a faux drawer and is attached to another panel at the back with screws so will be easy to remove.

The only issue is that it has another strip on top ( picture attached ) and I don't know whether I can get a piece like that.

Sorry for looking for some spoonfeeding - I can't speak French and my trips to Hornbach and the like have been traumatic .

Maybe a stupid question, but does it dry white or clear?

The one I use dries white.

One good thing is you do not need tools to smooth it after application, a wet finger is enough.

If the finish is not good one can always add extra coats.

I did my repair about five years ago, it still looks OK and the waterproofing is also good so the laminate does not swell anymore.

Of course, replacing the board is the best solution but then you need tools and skills plus getting the correct board specification for this damp area is not easy.