Honestly? I would have turned around and gone home. For the crap he gave you, he got a nice fetch session. Sounds like he anticipated where you were going and what you were doing.
I love taking my dogs for walks with the car. They can anticipate me less when we go to different spots and don’t start from the house. But even then if they’re giving me hell we go home. Period. If he knows how to do it and he’s choosing not to then I’d really just take him back home and try again later.
It's for dogs, there is one by Trixie, it's pate in a tube. The tube however is metal and a pain to use, but there is another one I get from Meiko in a plastic tube and retractable nozzle which works best for me. Dr Clauders workout snack.
I have also seen tubes that you can fill yourself called GooTube .
Also to add, is he ok with recall? Try to walk him off leash daily. My Appenzellers are so much easier to handle when they’ve had a good run off leash while I stroll along the path.
I've made Zoomies a thing, so she knows it's an event, it's coming, it's not a default. We get to a certain field, she heels, I make her wait, wait, wait... Zoom! And she goes absolutely nuts! If she runs it off, we have a good time together on the way back home.
The one thing I learned at training is that I talk too much. So when we're walking I only utter commands, and praise in response. This made such a difference. We can have those chatty conversations when we get back home.
OMG, this is exactly what I used to do with my Springer Spaniel. She developed a habit of trying to tear far ahead on the leash, so I spent a couple of months switching out direction unexpectedly, at which point she never took the line to its full length. In parallel, she started running way too far ahead when off the leash (yes, we can do that on the land we have) and so I'd unexpectedly turn heel and walk in the opposite direction. A few weeks of that, and she learned to walk close by, presumably for fear of being left behind/not being "in front" of "her people".
She was a super bouncy high energy dog who would pull like crazy on the lead when we first got her, but after fitting her with a harness that the lead then attached to, the whole family found it much easier to manage her and avoid that feeling of arms being pulled out of sockets.
No he’s a flight risk off the leash too. Did lots of traning on recall, he can also do that, but if he sees a deer or similar, he’s gone - which is obvs not ok!
So i was wrong about the steak. I’ve tried walking with cooked chicken before and sausage with no joy. I just went the same route as yesterday with a pocket of raw beef pieces and he walked next to me almost all the way. Still wanted to zoom ahead but came back as soon as corrected and reminded of the beef.
So seems reward has to be super high value. If this training takes a long time could get expensive. Thank god he accepts M-budget!
OP you have my sympathy. I went through something similar with a Lab. Hugely frustrating. Sadly, I think the only way out is loads of time out with the dog.. 3 or 4 hours a day, every day. All the carrot and stick ideas are great (I like 'walk the other way if the dog pulls' idea) but, really, these dogs should live on a farm and be free to run around to their heart's content. They can't sit indoors 'all the time' and only get out for an hour or so... it's just not what they're made for.
You’d think. But he actually doesn’t have a lot of stamina! 15 minutes of frisbee and he is knackered. There have been occasions where he’s taken his toys and and lay down on them to stop me throwing them again
If you’re looking for a radical solution try this, it may sound ridiculous but the result is effective and immediate. When you are out on the start of a walk before your dog starts pulling on the lead imagine your conscious self being located at the centre of your body around your navel and concentrate on that instead of what your dog is doing or may be about to do. It may take some practice to maintain the concentration but I find while you do, your dog will be walking nicely. If your concentration starts to lapse you may find your dog starting to pull or wander. It sometimes helps to put a finger there or I sometimes imagine my self as a little man inside operating me with lots of levers .
The technique has several names like "centring" or grounding" and is used in the martial arts to calm the mind. When it works it will make you wonder what or who is actually causing your dog to pull in the first place!
I wouldn't laugh at this. Anyone who understands and practices movement will know, you move from your center outwards. Walking the dog has started to teach me that information is sent up and down the leash, and that your dog (and you) can read that information.
I have become acutely aware of the connection between me and my dog through the leash, and where she can feel it from.
Instead of having your arms yanked from their sockets, there is a much deeper connection to be had and from where you can act and react.
Don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. I’ve suggested this on other dog forums and I had replies saying they were absolutely gobsmacked about how it worked! Hence my comment about making you think about who is making your dog pull in the first place.
I agree with the above. Step one, never use a harness. a harness allows a dog to pull with the strongest part of their body.
Secondly get a no pull harness or halty. These work so that when the dog pulls it brings their nose to the ground. their neck is the weak point for pulling and these devices make it impossible to pull.