Apologies if there is a similar thread lurking about… I know there are gardening questions scattered here and there, but I thought it might be helpful - as in easier to catch the eye of the forum experts - to have questions in one place. It seems that ‘not normal’ weather is now the new normal, perhaps requiring a garden rethink. Hopefully we can share experiences and strategies.
So - my current problems; any advice much appreciated.
Tomatoes with blossom end rot.
I know that irregular watering and inablity to take up calcium are the likely culprits. But the damage is done. I’ve pulled off the affected fruit, trimmed back some vines, with the idea to save the available soil calcium for productive vines and new fruit. I’ve started using a Calcium+ leaf and fruit spray in the evenings.
Do you think adding calcium in the form of crushed shells (A Hauert product, I think) to the soil around the plants would help?
Any other products or ideas? Have any of you successfully fixed a plant showing blossom end rot?
Speaking of trimming, do you regularly trim your tomato vines? If so, how many productive vines do you allow per plant? Previously trimming has been a standard suggestion, but I see that a bunch of gardening sites are now counseling against doing so. Thoughts?
Rhododendeons affected by the heat.
The plants show leaf burn and leaf droop, despite using sun umbrellas to try to filter the worst of the day. I’m watering the roots several times per day to perk the leaves up, but can I cut the damaged branches off? Everything I read says not to prune a Rhododendron, but desperate times…
(My mature plant shade garden was shady thanks to a neighbor’s huge old tree, which has since been cut down, leaving far too much sun in that area. I’m trying stop gap measures until I can get a shade tree growing on my side.)
Apply products directly into soil, rather than all these facy sprays etc. What i would do. Plant will choose where to apply and which leaves to sacrifice.
I would not trim.
Yes they can be trimmed at the root. They will resprout branches from the root.
Basically the plants are stressed. I would help them through the stree and let it choose which limbs to sacrifice.
What’s your pH? Aim for 6.5. I used to apply bone meal, not shells. Bone meal is readily available, whereas shells have a lot of break-down time. Do you mulch? I found that mulching regulated moisture and prevented the dry-wet cycle. Also make sure you aren’t giving them too much nitrogen.
Trimming. I used to pinch out the little side shoots that appear above each set of mature leaves. I was growing monster tomatoes.
Rhodies. I wouldn’t trim anything yet. They will look terrible (mine do now), but they are amazingly sturdy. Best to water deeply, not daily (and this is true of most plants) to send the roots deep searching after the water. My mother used to leave a hose trickling on each tree for 1/2 hour, and we had a forest of rhodies and camillias.
Get ready for more heat and little rain…all this will pass. Best of luck!
I’m on the Dark Side of the Zürichsee. In a normal year, I’d be dealing with cooler temps and far too much rain, and have tried to plant flower beds accordingly. Hence my thirsty plant disaster this year.
The big question is: Will we ever have ‘normal’ again? This year has shown me that I need to plant for unpredictability.
So suggestions for perennials tolerant of both drought AND wet climates, as well as cold winters (which may well be a thing of the past) would be much appreciated!
I’ve put im some echinacea and day lilies (sun) and cranesbill (shade) as they should tolerate both conditions fairly well, as well as a couple of sedum varieties on a slope that drains well in wet years. I have a few flowering bushes like potentilla and spirea for borders, but I’d prefer something more compact that I don’t have to trim way down every year. And lets face it - neither gives much of a show.
The soil in most flowering beds I’d like to replant is neutral to slightly alkaline. My acid soil beds are pretty full with blueberries and rhododendrons, but I could probably squeeze in an acid-loving something special if it brought color to the mix . (Especially if the scorched rhodos don’t recover.)
What other ‘extreme weather tolerant’ perennials should I look for?
Because bush tomatoes are often grown in pots, which makes it easier to evenly water, it may seem that they get blossom end rot less often. The indeterminates are much more rewarding, IMHO, in terms of taste and wonderful varieties.
For a forgiving perennial, I vote for Russian sage.
OK, so it’s Hornmehl, not Knochenmehl . I’ve been looking for the wrong thing. Thanks!
Looks like Hornmehl is readily available then. Toodling off to Landi now…
I might try one or two determinate tomatoes next year, assuming I can find them here, if only as an experiment. My MIL grew determinates exclusively as that’s what Hoosier farmers did back in the day, and hers were always perfect - and delicious. We have a different climate here, but it would at least be an interesting trial.
I haven’t had any luck conquering the blossom end rot, but it’s only two plants so far. Those are probably toast but the other plants look unaffected. So far. The fruit is still green, so knock wood. I have several tomato varieties, growing in various locations, trying to figure out what is happy where. It’s always a bit of trial and error.
Thanks for the Russian sage tip; will look for some for next year.
Speaking of next year - I’ve read that many gardeners are now recommending planting perennials in the later fall rather than the spring, to give the plants time to develop their roots before summer drought. Do any of you do that? Do you lose much that first winter? Would appreciate any thoughts…
Of course one hurdle is that Landi, Jumbo, etc are pretty much empty by end of July, so finding perennials for fall planting might be difficult. Or expensive, as I imagine I’d need to look at a big garden center, like Meier or similar.
Sad news, indeed–CJD is especially cruel. My only Austin rose also died last week. (I was told I wouldn’t be able to keep her happy up here in the frozen north, and the local nursery owner was correct.) RIP, Mr. Austin.
Russian sage is brilliant, flowers throughout summer and is a real bee magnet.
If you time it right you can often get perennials for 50 or even 75% off in Jumbo or Landi towards the end of summer. I’ve often picked up a plant or two and they’ve always overwintered fine and been good the following summer. They sometimes look a bit tired and wilted but I reckon at those discounts I’ve got nothing really to lose.
would not recommend 5 in the drought resistant plant article. they multiply voraciously, take over other plants in garden - unhappy neighbors and locals.
look at photo and see how it has pushed away other plants. the seeds are airborne and will disperse everywhere.
I second tom8050 on #5, and on many other grasses…I’m battling some volunteers, and their roots are incredibly dense. And don’t even start me on common mullein. I’ve spent 10 years trying to eradicate it. I notice that The Lovely Ursula now has one in her drive…grrrr. Their seeds contain rotenone, which is a pesticide banned in Europe. Toxic to fish, too.