Noohn Bar and Restaurant
Henric Petri-Strasse 12, Basel
Tel: 061 281 14 14
http://www.noohn.ch
Date of visit: 4th Nov 2006
Smoking policy: Restaurant area is smoke-free
by Nick Steven
Situated on Henric Patri Strasse off Elisabethenstrasse, Noohn is on the premises of what used to be a furniture shop. The space is quite large, with the décor being something between Bauhauslager and "Blade Runner". They have gone for that kind of Japanesey kind of cyberpunk look which would probably not look out of place in a William Gibson novel.
We initially went to check the place out on a midweek afternoon for a cup of tea while on our way to buy a book on Vienna at Bider and Tanner. My partner fancied a cup of Japanese tea - but in spite of the decor the only non-black teas were jasmine and chamomile. I just had a schale. The place was empty then, and in the light of day it had about as much atmosphere as the moon.
At the front is a bar and at the back is a large space with a restaurant and on one side a sushi bar complete with conveyor belt. I had a quick peek at the menu which seemed to have balsamic and miso in equal measure so I put it in the category of fusion cooking.
It was a couple of weeks later that we went to Noohn for an evening with a larger crowd of friends and we at Bastronomy were not planning a review; but after the experience having a meal there we felt we could not let our readers down. With the lights down the décor is actually not too bad and kind of works. It seems to be popular among the yuppie banker crowd that inhabits the St. Albans / Aeschenplatz areas and the place was quite busy.
Price for a drink is average to high - a small beer was SFr4 while a "deci" of plonk was around the SFr6.50 mark. Quite a jump when I consider we were paying €2 for an "achtel" in Vienna - but as we always say at Bastronomy Towers, this is Basel. I imagine the ground rents in that part of town ain't cheap.
We were shown to the restaurant area at the back where we were going to have a set menu. The tables are that kind high-chair arrangement you see in Sushi bars and you have a view of goings on in the kitchen. The printed menu indicated different courses involving chicken sate, dim sum, seared salmon and perch fillet, grilled venison, grilled beef, pumpkin curry.
When the food came, the minimalist nature of the décor appeared to be extended to the portion sizes. The red meat was a small slither of each to be shared between four people. There was one sate stick each and one small portion of the fish. The pumpkin curry was a small ladleful with rice next to it.
Cutlery was either chopsticks or knives and forks. The meat and fish should really have been presented in bite sized chunks if people are supposed to use chopsticks - but never mind. I was wondering if the chopsticks would come with an electron microscope so we could locate the miniscule morsels on our plates.
Two of our party were pregnant and as the red meat was not cooked through, that ruled out two of the dishes for them.
One chicken sate skewer arrived with the meat slightly pink in the middle and when someone complained to a waitress she got into a panic about it and had no idea how to deal with the situation. Clearly the chef and the rest of the staff fell asleep in class on the day they taught the principles of food hygiene at catering school.
The food actually tasted alright but the portions really were not enough and one lady in our party actually went on to MacDonald's afterwards as she was still hungry. Indeed at home we had to have cheese and biscuits or go to bed starving.
Given the small portion sizes and the erratic service - it took ages for ordered drinks to arrive and the staff did appear clueless at times - the bill for the food alone was rather steep at SFr68 a head. My total bill was SFr108 as I also copped for a bottle wine.
The restaurant area is non-smoking but I think they missed a trick by allowing smoking in the bar area. After a meal in clean air it was a bit of a shock to hit the tobacco fug in the bar.
There is in Basel a market for bars and restaurants offering something slightly different than the usual run-of the mill. It is a pity that the Noohn did not really come up to scratch as a place like that does have a lot of potential.
This article appeared originally on http://www.bastronomy.com - a non profit website devoted to indulging the owner's passion for food and drink.