fresh at the market - may

May brings us vegetables which are turned into desserts, and fruits which become savory courses. From the fresh fruits, there are some interesting choices, but there are also a few cautions! First, early season fruits can be very acidic, which is a turn-off for many. Second, many of the early season fruits are grown in greenhouses and harvested while still green. These fruits are...well...tasteless. The fruits which have been allowed to mature under a natural sun are mostly from Southern Italy, the Provence region of France, or Spain. These fruits are...well...full of flavor! May is also an excellent time for preparing salads. The greens are plentiful, and there is a nice mixture of bitter and sweet leaves to choose from. Accompanying salad greens are plenty of colorful and full-flavored vegetables. Young carrots, cucumbers (not the long English varieties), very mild radishes in various shapes and sizes, and of course, the increasing selection of fresh Italian tomatoes. May’s shopping basket can certainly be filled with many refreshing and flavorful fresh products, but May itself is perhaps best defined by the wide selection and easy availability of fresh asparagus. Here are a few products to look for, avoid, search out on the wild side, and look ahead toward...

what to look for

Asparagus in May is always at the top of anyone’s shopping list who is interested in fresh and local products. The best choices for white asparagus are those that come from Southern Germany, Alsace, France (Cavillon), or the Donau region (Austria/Slovakia). Increasingly, white asparagus from Switzerland are showing up on the market, and as a result, prices for import asparagus are on the rise. There are also quite a few scams at the market to be aware of. Scams such as Greek or Hungarian asparagus being sold as higher-priced Donau asparagus. To insure absolute freshness, rub two spears together...they should produce a noticeable screeching sound if they are truly fresh. For green asparagus, look for those coming from Italy, Spain, or Switzerland. The best bets in May are those coming from Canton Thurgau. Remember, asparagus should be consumed as close to harvest as possible, which means the closer you are to the harvesting point the better chance you have of enjoying truly fresh asparagus. Around the Zürich area, there are multiple choices available to those who would like to purchase asparagus directly from the farmer. There is an asparagus festival in the small town of Flaach (about 20 minutes north of Zürich) on Sunday, May 6th. More information is available at the following link: www.spargel.ch/spargelfest.htm . Another option is visiting Jucker Farms, where you can harvest your own asparagus daily until the end of June. Visit the following link for more information: www.juckerfarmart.ch . May is not just about asparagus...there are plenty of other fresh selections waiting at the market. If you haven’t had the chance to experience fresh Italian tomatoes , then now is the time! Look for either the Sardo or Pacchino varieties, which are approaching their prime season. Other tomato varieties are beginning to show up at the market ( pelatti or San Marzano ), but these tomatoes are coming from a greenhouse and they are not your best options in May. Also coming from Italy are fresh garden peas . Like asparagus, peas begin losing their flavor and nutritional qualities as soon as they are harvested. The best time to find fresh peas at the market is on the weekend when new shipments from Italy arrive. Spring onions from Switzerland are plentiful right now. It is easy to find yellow, white or red varieties, which are bursting with sweet flavor. Spring onions should not be confused with the thin scallions often used in Asian cuisine. Spring onions are immature onions. For a nice treat, try coating spring onions in olive oil and sea salt, then grilling them over a hot fire until nicely marked. Young swiss chard and fennel are also available right now. The former are from Switzerland, while the latter are coming from Italy. Both are moist and full of flavor. Enjoy swiss chard quickly sautéed with a few olives, or young fennel raw with just a bit of olive oil and lemon juice. Young and sweet radishes from France are also in abundance. They come in a variety of colors and shapes. Especially sweet are the elongated red or white ( Daikon ) varieties. Young carrots from Switzerland are also plentiful from May until June. From the fruits, consider melons , strawberries and nespole (similar to apricots). The melons from Cavillon in France are especially nice toward the middle part of the month. These melons can be expensive at CHF 9 per melon, but they are truly a special treat. Fresh strawberries are available right now, but only look for those coming from Italy. Swiss strawberries begin showing up at the market toward the end of May or the beginning of June. Nespole form Spain are tart and full of vitamins. They have a flavor somewhere between cherries and apricots. One final tip to consider is the lemon . Lemons are often overlooked and not considered as a fresh seasonal product. But, lemons do change in their flavor, and there are plenty of reasons to search for fresh alternatives. One such alternative are the lemons from Liguria in Italy. You can experience these little gems first hand by visiting the lemon festival in Monterosso (Cinque Terre) during the middle part of May. Here is a link for more information: www.cinqueterre.it/en/cta8.html

what to avoid

Tomatoes which are not Italian. There are plenty of tomatoes available in May, but most of them are mass produced in Holland, Morocco, Israel, and Spain. These tomatoes are really not flavorful. Cucumbers are also widely available, but most are from a greenhouse and have very thick skins. Red and yellow bell peppers are mostly from Spain, and are mass produced in large greenhouses using heavy amounts of pesticides. Strawberries are coming into season, but avoid those coming from somewhere else other than Italy...at least until the end of the month. Avoid asparagus from anywhere outside of Switzerland, Italy, Germany, France, or Austria. Green-fleshed melons (mostly from Spain) and Spanish cantaloupes are harvested immature. They should be either avoided, or allowed to mature at room temperature for a few days (they will attract a lot of fruit flies and never reach their full flavor potential).

on the wild side

There are plenty of wild (and free) options available in May. Bärlauch is still plentiful, although they are becoming harsh in their flavor as they bloom. Wild nettles are appearing everywhere. Try to harvest the younger leaves toward the top, and remember to wear gloves. Wash wild nettles very well, and plunge them into boiling salted water for about one minute to remove their stinging capability. After cooling in cold water, the leaves can be easily removed from the stems. Elderberry trees are blooming this year about 3-4 weeks early. Elderberry flowers are quite fragrant. They make excellent syrups when steeped in water and mixed with sugar.

looking ahead...

June has many new fruits to enjoy, as well as plenty of vegetable options. Look for young beets from Switzerland, bell peppers and fresh cranberry beans from Italy, green beans from Switzerland, young eggplant from Switzerland, apricots from France, gooseberries, cherries, and red currants from Switzerland and Germany.

Happy shopping and cooking...

Excellent Jack, thanks from someone who is trying to eat more healthily and explore some of the seasonality of food in Switzerland.

One question. Does anyone know the opening time of the Friday food market at Helvetiaplatz Zurich? Been meaning to check it out for a long time but work gets in the way.

Thanks...when I get around to it, I will post some seasonal recipes to along with the food ideas...

The market at Helvetiaplatz officially opens at 7am, but many vendors are there a bit earlier. Fridays can be very crowded their, so it is best to come early...

good luck on the shopping...

Jack

Wow, very detailed post! I totally agree with your opinion of tomatoes. Asparagus is not to be scoffed at - too bad only a few grow in our garden.

First time collectors of Bärlauch should be aware of the Herbstzeitlose, a similar but not smelling, toxic plant ( Link ).

Thanks for the tip! I love asparagus and all too often it can be a little bendy and not overly fresh when purchased in the supermarkets.

My Granny says the best time to harvest peas is when you've put the water on to boil first...

Great quote from an interview between Fergus Henderson and Rowley Leigh on peas in last weekends FT: "Wait until peas are in season, then use frozen"

Excellent!!! Your granny is correct about the peas...I used to have a pea field as my backyard, and there is absolutely nothing like very freshly picked peas... As for frozen...frozen peas are one of the few frozen vegetables that are actually decent, and in most cases better than buying something 'fresh'...

For those living in the French part of the country, look for asparagus from Valais. Top notch stuff that, serve with "jambon cru" smoked or not from the same canton and a glass of white wine, from Valais too, to have a proper taste of that part of Switzerland. If you don't like it, give up on life

Great post Jack!

Would love to come down and join one of your courses. We love cooking!

Can you give me more info on what's coming up in terms of lesson etc....?

Cheers

Thanks for the reminder on asparagus from Valais...I always forget about it because it rarely makes its way to the north....

You're welcome...It really is our pleasure to offer this information about what's fresh at the market... You can find out more about our classes by viewing our schedule .

Enjoy your cooking experiences...

Jack

Hi Jack,

I just wanted to say thanks very much for giving the inside scoop on what's fresh at the market. Your post inspired me to brave the torrential rain in Lausanne on Saturday to head to the market, and I'm so glad I did! The Valasian asparagus I had with my supper last night was the best asparagus I've ever tasted, and the Italian tomatoes I picked up are already gone, they were that good!

I really appreciate that you took the time to share your knowledge with "the rest of us".

HeatherM

Your welcome!!! I also braved the cold on Saturday and noticed the first Swiss strawberries at the market...They were CHF 9 for a carton compared with CHF 4,80 for Italian...I compared them and the Italian ones are far superior right now...That will turn around, though, in a June when Swiss strawberries are available... As for the melons...I tried those also, and I can say the French melons are a bit under ripe....give those a few more weeks and try them with some prosciutto...

Jack

Jack,

Thanks for the informative article. Where is your vegetable stand? I would like to shop there. There are man pitfalls to shopping for fruits and vegetables, especially this early in the season.

We have Farmer Markets here and I've often wondered where the "farmers" get their produce this early in the season.

Thanks again

Your welcome... We don't have a stand at the market...our business is more educational in manner ( Laughing Lemon ). If you ever need assistance, feel free to get in touch and if I am available, then I would be happy to take you on a tour of the stands I shop at...no charge of course!

Jack

Hi!

This may not be the best thread to post in but I didn't want to start a new one.

I've been looking for kale, the dark green frizzy kind, since I've gotten here and can't seem to find it.

Have any of you seen kale here?

Thanks!

Yes...it is certainly readily available here, but only beginning in about October...It comes from Italy, and is called Cavalo Nero. Your best bet would be visiting any of the markets... Great stuff by the way!

Jack

Jack, where do you do all your shopping?

Do you go to the markets / butchers? or use COOP/ Migros?

I think there's a clue in the thread title.

dave

Hey Jack,

I presume the June "what's in season" will be including Italian figs which were in evidence at Basel market on Saturday.

Here is a nice recipe for figs that works well both with the fresh green ones and the dark syrupy ones.

Cheers,

Nick