Ok, let's try to make it clear with a realistic and concrete example.
I will go in Italy with my girlfriend (2 persons), I will buy 20kg of meat in total.
Let's assume I will pay 20 euros/kg, for a total of 400 euros (some cuts are cheaper, some are more expensive, but 20euros/kg is a fair average for Italian prices.
I will have an invoice printed by my butcher for a total of 400 euros, of which 22% is Italian taxes (I don't know if it must be included in the total or not, let's say it is). Let's say in CHF it is 500CHF, to be shared between the 2 persons (I assume meat is not considered as a single item. In any case, I can ask the butcher to split in 2 invoices).
Case 1 - no VAT is due. In this case I will have to pay a total of 17CHF * 18kg (2kg can be imported for free), and it will be 306CHF of import price.
Case 2 - VAT must be paid for some reason. In this case, I will pay 8% on 500CHF (which is 40CHF). + 306 CHF of import duty.
In case 1, I will pay a total (considering the price I paid for the meat) of 806CHF for 20kg of meat, making it an average of 40CHF/kg.
In case 2, I will pay a total of 846CHF for 20 kg of meat, making it an average of 42CHF/kg.
For me, this price is worth, because I know personally the butcher, the meat he sells and the way cows are treated in his area. As for the price, including everything, it is still cheaper than Swiss meat.
Please, let me know if I am missing something. And be it clear that I WANT to declare the meat, I just want to avoid bad surprises (like I have to trash all my meat, or I must pay 100CHF for each kg).
Thanks to everyone contributing