Newbie Survival Guide

When we moved here, I thought that I had a pretty good idea of what I was getting into, but the devil is always in the details. I thought that it might be fun if we had a thread devoted to all of the little things that we learned the hard way. Some of these are kind of tongue in cheek, but hopefully they might be somewhat helpful to new folks who are making the big move. Feel free to add your own tips, warnings, and lessons learned.

-Doors in public buildings don’t always open outward. When leaving the market, post office or wherever, don’t hit the door at full speed if you like your current nose.

-Produce that’s sold by weight isn’t weighed at the cash register. You have to do this at the scale provided in the produce section and it will spit out a sticker with a price and a bar code.

-Markets don’t provide plastic shopping bags for free. You can buy reusable shopping bags the first time you are in the check out line. If you are like me, you can provide a good living for the people who make shopping bags by forgetting to bring them back and always having to buy more.

-Ikea has lunch for about 10 bucks with free refills on fountain drinks. This may possibly be the only free drink refill opportunity in the whole country.

-Shopping carts are not free. You have to insert a coin into the handle to unlock it from the rack. You may or may not get your coin back at the end of your shopping experience.

-Parking garages spit out a paper slip with magnetic strip on it upon entry. The payment kiosk, however, isn’t at the exit. It’s inside the store or at some other random location in the garage. Take the slip with you and pay the parking fee before getting back into your car, otherwise you can’t get out. This is not a time to make friends with the motorists in line behind you.

-It’s entirely possible that you will have to provide your own light fixtures when you move into your new crib. The landlord only has to provide a circuit and a bare bulb. You can go on the cheap at Ikea or the Migros DIY center.

-Fuel is sold by liters (duh) but near the borders it may also be sold in either francs or euros, even on the Swiss side. if you plan to pay in cash, get good at doing math in your head.

-People in Europe smoke...a lot... get used to it.

-Don’t pack like you’re moving to Mars, pretty much everything you can get at home, you can get here...for a price (disclaimer; okay, you can’t buy brown sugar or root beer, but pretty much anything else, really).

-Another disclaimer; If you have kids, and those kids have an xbox with wireless controllers, bring AA batteries...lot’s of them. If you run out of batteries, force the kids to read a book, because batteries are friggin' expensive.

-You probably don’t need a new power cord for your computer, phone, or whatever. Read the teeny print on the transformer. It will probably work over here with a simple plug adapter. Alternately you can put a new Swiss plug end on an American power strip and plug in all those chargers to the power strip.

-17 days to get a dryer delivered isn’t considered overly long. The phrase “runs like a Swiss watch” doesn’t mean that things happen fast, just that they happen the same way every time.

-Chicken McNuggets at McDonald’s cost as much as diamonds. Fake McNuggets from the frozen food section only cost as much as fake diamonds.

-Vanilla ice cream is half the cost of any other flavor

-You can get a prepaid cell phone with only a passport, but won’t get a contract without a residence permit. If you only have an L permit, be prepared to pay a monster up front deposit on said contract, as insurance against you skipping the country.

-It may be cheaper to write a check from an American bank and deposit it in your Swiss account than to wire money from the states, but the funds won’t be available for at least a couple of weeks.

-Personal checks are unheard of. You can pay bills by taking them to the post office and paying in cash. The post office will give you a receipt and transfer the money for you.

-If you are American and live in Geneva, it's assumed that you probably work for Proctor and Gamble.

-Your old American cookie sheets are probably too big to fit inside your new Swiss oven.

-The first few times you use public transportation you will buy the wrong ticket. I believe that in most cases there is no right ticket, only tickets that vary in degrees of “wrongness.”

-Mobile speeding ticket cameras are everywhere. There is no sign or advance warning. They reside in plain concrete boxes at the side of the road and have absolutely nothing to do with public safety. They exist for the sole purpose of catching you speeding.

-And finally: “But this isn’t how we do it at home!” doesn't accomplish anything. The fact is that you are not home. This is the way that they do it here, and here is where you are, so adapt, enjoy the experience and don't be afraid to laugh at yourself

This made laugh. I've been here 6 years and I still don't know which "via" I should go "via" when taking the train from Zürich to Basel

It's always with a cold sweat and tremble that I hand my ticket over to the inspector

I'm glad I'm not the only one that had this problem, 3 (too small) ovens later, I finally threw mine out!

What a great idea--wish I had read this post a couple of weeks ago. Here are a few more tips:

1. If you're relying on public transportation, time is no longer continuous--it becomes a step function. There's no such thing as being 'a few minutes late'...whether you've missed it by 30 seconds or 15 minutes, the bus is gone and you have to take the next one.

2. You probably can't afford meat.

3. Everything closes early--good luck finding anything (shops, grocery stores, etc.) open after 8p, and most places close at 6p. On Sundays, stores don't open at all. However, the stores at train stations stay open a bit later, and are usually open (at least for limited hours) on Sunday.

4. You have to buy city-specific trash bags in order to throw anything away. Recycling becomes even more attractive, because the trash bags are tiny and cost 3 CHF apiece. The bags aren't on the shelf--you ask for them at the counter of Migros or Coop.

5. V-Zug evidently does business in Australia, so if you have any V-Zug appliances, you can probably find an owner's manual in English online.

6. You need a PIN code to use credit cards (yes, CREDIT cards) in a lot of places, including the SBB (train) ticket machines. Your credit card might not have a PIN because the US doesn't use chip-and-pin technology much, and no matter how many times you call the Int'l Collect Customer Service number on the back of your card, that will not change. So carry cash.

7. If you see a thread strung between posts in some semblance of a fence, don't touch it. Even if you can't see any livestock, and are right in the middle of a neighborhood, and there's absolutely no reason for it to be an electric fence...it's still probably an electric fence. And there is probably a sheep or a cow or something in your neighbor's garage, because people seem to keep livestock like they keep house-pets.

8. People, usually older men, actually DO wear Alpine-style typical Swiss clothing sometimes, and they aren't even being ironic.

9. Those hotdogs that you can get at pretzel stands where they just hollow out a baguette and plunk the dog right in are probably the best invention in the WORLD. You must try one. They even put the ketchup/mustard/some other mysterious sauce INSIDE the baguette, and it's evenly distributed around the dog. It's amazing--truly a testament to Swiss engineering.

Anytime you need to tell your landlord something, or ask for something, do it in writing, and send it by registered mail. You might need that paper trail someday. Also, register with Asloca, it is always good to know your rights.

Shop around for insurance, and ask your canton if there are any conditions under which they will accept foreign insurance (such as for a student). This can save you thousands over time.

Be assertive. Everyone else around you will be.

Get a half-fare travelcard if you will be here for any length of time and don't have a vehicle. It's worth it. Keep an eye on the SBB's monthly deals.

Don't save special touristy things for when you have guests. You'll be surprised how fast the time goes.

Stay close to your support system, and take extra initiative to make friends here. You will have lonely days, but it will be okay.

Keep every swiss document that comes your way. Find a way to file these documents. This will directly impact your quality of life and ability to succeed here.

And make sure you put the right coin in the right slot. I tried a 1 Frank piece today in the 2 Frank slot. Not only did I not get the shopping cart but I also had to go through quite some trouble fumbling the 1 Frank piece out again

The information desk at Coop gives out (or used to at least) free "jetons" that you can use in supermarket trolleys and attach to your keyrings (they have a hole).

The Coop ones even work in Migros trolleys .

Asap, learn the language

2- learn the language

3- learn the language

4- etc, etc.

5- everything else falls into place.

- there is no "lineup" - just a mass of people with the first one to push forward winning the race

- there is a form for everything...and a charge for each one even if they all have the same information

- if you are just moving here, bring lots of passport sized color photos - you will need one for pretty much everything you apply for!

- Google Translate is a lifesaver, but don't try to use it when trying to respond to some formal complaint your landlord has received from a random neighbour

- there are very specific rules for owning a dog - do a forum search for "dog training" or just "meloncollie" as they are the source for almost all correct dog related information on here

- it really is normal for a 4 year old to walk to school by themself...as long as they are wearing their reflective V, it's weird to see a parent with them!

- watch the water - there seems to be an infectious disease called pregnancy and the only cause seems to be the Swiss water!

One of the most useful and most amusing threads ever...

My two Rappen / Centimes / Centesimi:

- Many things may seem to be complicated but maybe are just different than at home. For instance, most Swiss never have to contact a lawyer their entire life, and you don't need a title agency to buy a second hand bicycle. You just buy it.

- You cannot only exchange practically every important currency at any tiny bank in a one-horse town, you can even buy it there.

- Gasoline (a.k.a. petrol) may cost an arm and a leg, but for going to the barber's, buying groceries, getting a subscription med and having lunch, you needn't drive 25 miles. It's all within walking distance.

- For the very same reason, a city with 100,000 inhabitants may have as few drive-through bank windows as a 500 people "town" in the USA.

- Walking isn't considered a disease, and you may be considered a human being without a driver's license.

- There isn't a smoke alarm in every room, yet there are way fewer house fires than in the USA, maybe because parents teach their kids to make sure they don't burn the house down, just like they teach them how to cross a street.

- In the same context, there isn't a warning sticker on everything. You are expected to know that heated ravioli may be hot and that objects in the rear-view mirror may be closer than they appear.

- There isn't a Panda diaper changing table in every Gent's restroom, because pandas are fairly rare in Central Europe.

- To use a train, you don't have to book a seat three days in advance and show up at the check-in an hour before departure. You go to the station, buy a ticket at the vending machine if needed and board the train, preferably before the scheduled departure time (see posts above) because in 95% of the cases there will be no delay.

- The cashier at the store check-out probably won't ask you how you are, simply because you are today's customer #1264 and she doesn't actually care, and besides that she won't lose her job because she doesn't fake interest.

- Forget anything like lay-away or other kinds of customer care at stores. Just not liking what you bought isn't an excuse for taking it back. Get informed before you buy.

- You'll find that certain things typically Made in Switzerland are more expensive than in the USA.

- You won't find Swiss cheese in Switzerland, and no cook knows what a Swiss steak is.

- If you order one meal at a restaurant and ask for a second cover, maybe they'll call those nice young men in the clean white coats to take you away....

- People roaming the streets carrying assault rifles doesn't mean there's a revolution going. It's called " Schützenfest " in German, " Concours de tire " in French, and "Festa e gara dei tiratori a segno" in Italian, which, by the way, also explains why Italian speaking people have to talk so fast: They are trying to finish the sentence before going to bed.

- Switzerland has four national languages. English isn't one of them, except in Interlaken, Geneva, Gstaad and St. Moritz.

Ever heard of Puka Dogs? Sold in Hawaii for over 60 years now.

I am sure I'll think of more, but for now:

- The first floor is not the ground floor.

- Trains/trams/buses do not always run on time. Check your location and the signs before entering or exiting so you make sure you're on the right one.

- Once in a while platforms change. Just because you caught the train on 2 last time doesn't mean it will 100% definitely be there this time.

- Don't specify a religion or church when you register unless you actually practice it and want to pay the associated tax.

- Stock up on sticky notes. It's the most frequent means of communication in many apartment buildings.

- Be a little handy. Most minor things in your apartment are your financial responsibility (burned out lights) and often the first few hundred Francs of any repairs are yours.

- If you come from the US with any small appliances, invest in a step-down converter (or two).

funny to read what is different in your country to switzerland/europe.

btw: dont buy plain AAA batteries. get rechargable ones with a recharger. maybe buy those in the US, good ones are expensive here. but it safes money, is good for environment.

and what is the problem with litres? for a normal car (no SUV of Porsche) estimate 80-110 chf when your fuel tank is empty.

Im European... ^99% of the things mentioned i expected before moving... except the staring!

SWISS PEOPLE STARE. Its annoying but not offencive...

We talked about moving to America but after reading this thread.... it seems like a different world lol

If you see a fat person, when you walk closer you'll see it's actually two Swiss having a smoke together.

- When you first do your shopping at coop here you'll be asked for merkli. you'll probably have no idea what they want from you. But dont pull out all your cards hoping that one is the right one. Until you find out what they are (which you will eventually) just say "nein".

- Always remember to buy a night tariff ("nachtzuschlag") for the public transport on fri and sat night after 12:30am. It doesnt matter if your ticket is valid for 24 hours, you still need to buy it (in addition to a reguilar valid ticket).

- If you have a chance to reject getting 5 rappen in change, do it. The 5 rappen coin doesnt have too many uses here.

- take photos of your entire apartment (and I mean every nook and cranny) before you load it with furnature.

- Many toilets in a major location like train stations, some shopping centres etc, will charge you to use them. They are usually coin operated only, give no change, and regardless of this they provide you with no means to change your notes to coins so that you can relieve yourself.

- fruits and veg in the shops are extremely seasonal and only available for short periods of time.

- if you order parcels from overseas, or even your relatives send you some presents, if the value is more than around 45 franks, expect to pay heavily just to receive it. Tell all your friends and relatives not to send you stuff!

- Proper thick cut bacon is next to impossible to find. Yes life might have to be lived without bacon.

- Learn to plan your shopping and subsequent usage of the checkouts such that you can pack it up nice and quickly. the cashier doesnt pack anything for you and if you're slow you will have a bunch of grumpy swiss people in the line mumbling at you under their breath.

- taxi rides over longer distances (over 15km) are pretty much unaffordable.

- if the Billag man comes to your door, just give him Adrians address.

cheers

SC

- When you visit a restaurant you have to ask for a English menu otherwise they assume you can read German

- Certain things are cheaper in Migros though not a lot (0.10CHF). Sometimes, you can get very good bargain in fresh produce at a fraction of what Coop charges. Generally, quality is much better in Coop.

- Most chinese restaurants are NOT the authentic chinese cooking. It tend to be Vietnamese or Thai passing off as chinese

I would think that is a reasonable assumption to make...

I totally agree