Hans
Sometimes I might need a public IP trhrough wireless for my smartphone's SIP client, hence this setup serves me well.
Hope this explains.
You might want to question if you want a print-server and/or VoIP built in to the device.
Many thanks
http://www.englishforum.ch/tv-intern...-cablecom.html
back then you were given a lot of helpful advice. now you seem to be asking the same questions?
wireless routers are not that exotic. mostly they all perform the same job in the same kind of way. mainly, you just need to pick up a B/G one and follow the instructions. see your other thread for those.
krlock3.
In the UK I just had a desk top which never moved, so no interest in wireless. In France I had a Livebox with Orange/France Telecom which did the wireless thing for you and bought a laptop, and was hooked with the flexibility. Now I'm here and that luxury of a one box fits all thingy is'nt there I haven't a clue.
Sorry if I'm trying the patience of some of you guru's, but if you imagine explining this to something small and furry maybe you'll forget where the groan button is...maybe
If you have a printer then you might consider a model with a print-server so that you can share the printer and don't have to have 12 PCs on to print.
And thread merged. Try to use the same one
Your right, but the resposes of plug in a router didn't help too much, and some of the other were a little to complex I'm embarassed to say. Yours was quite full, so now I'm looking for hardware recommendations...that I can understand, which didn't really come through on the original post. Sorry if it put you out, it wasn't my intention.
Cheers
Graham
If your PC never moves and can be wired, good. However, it will have to be near a cable socket otherwise you will have network cables running all over the place.
Most printers these days have ethernet connectivity. So, your modem will be plugged into the wall, the router connects to the modem, the printer, PC and skype phone connect to the router.
It sounds like all you need is a router and you are good to go.
Tip:
If you have been connected to your Cablecom modem directly and you want to connect a router, you will have to unplug everything from the modem and disconnect it from the mains power.
Cablecom modems write the network (MAC) address of the first device it connects to. To erase this entry, power down and disconnect everything from the modem for an hour (do this, go out and buy your router so that when you get home to connect it, you will be sure it has cleared)
When you have your router:
1) connect and power up the modem - leave for a few minutes
2) connect (ethernet) and power up the router - leave for a few minutes
3) connect laptop to router by ethernet to first configure.
If anything goes wrong, always use the sequence.
Regards
Hans
To explain a little further:
The Dlink ( with reduced functionality - DHCP etc. disabled ) provides a high speed bandwidth through "bridging / switching" ( no examining of packets required hence high speed ) using its LAN ports alone and wireless interface for my other devices such as a network camera. A laptop connected directly ( either wired or wireless ) to the Dlink also allows me to test the raw speed to Cablecom's performance site.
My "edge" router ( Billion ATA ) sits behind the Dlink wireless router. The Billion provides a secure environment to the typical networked devices eg NAS and works well with Cablecom through MAC address cloning. Routing does present a significant overhead as each packet needs to be examined.
Wireless routers are more affordable than a wireless access point together with a 4 port switch.
So although I have 2 routers, only one functions as a router.
I use a Skype certified phone Topcom Butler 4012 with USB and RJ11 ports and it works perfectly with my ATA and a machine behind the edge router.
I have very limited technical know-how, so I was hoping someone could help. I am using the standard Cablecom Thomson wireless router and want to add another wireless router to my WLAN to extend the range in our house.
Google searches suggest downloading third party firmware for the router to enable repeating bridging (or something), but the Cablecom router is not listed as compatible with the third party download.
So, is there an easy way to achieve this. The second router is a D-Link. I'm aware that the Cablecom router allows me to set it to bridge mode, is this what I need. Good also suggests static IPs and various other things, which is where my eyes glaze over.
Thanks.
Add a paired/matched router and repeater (e.g. Netgear/Netgear) Router and Extender to the network. No need to bridge, no need to repeat. These things will get a novice into trouble.
(Plug the WiFi router into the Thomson, you now have WiFi , plug the extender in somewhere around 1/2 way between your furthest point that you want WiFi in, and the WiFi router. Netgears will associate and extend automatically via WPS.) There should be D-Link extenders, the standard is published, so mix-matching in theory should work.
If not steaming HD, consider WiFi enabled power line adapters or a powerline adaptor with your D-Link at the far end.
If you turn on wireless on both routers but they are physically close to each that might even have interference. You could move them apart by using power line or a long Ethernet cable to put the 2nd one where you want it.
Dan
Dan
1. Log into the interface of the wireless router.
2. Click on LAN IP Setup.
3. Give the wireless router (access point/switch) an ip address on the same network as DHCP server (router).
Example:
DHCP server's ip address (192.168.1.1)
DHCP range (192.168.1.2 - 192.168.1.50)
Wireless router (192.168.1.100)
4. Disable DHCP in LAN IP Setup.
5. Plug in to one of the 4 LAN ports (not WAN or Internet port).